
It’s Cromer, but maybe not as you know it. The beach is closed for about half a mile near the pier for ‘works’ – looks like a shipload of granite blocks have been dumped next to the esplanade with a couple of hills of granite left thirty yards further out in an attempt to protect the sea wall itself. Sadly, that often impacts on the cliffs just beyond the protected zone, so there may be more erosion along the walk to East Runton in future. Good for fossil hunting – not so great for the houses and businesses on the cliff tops.
We were staying a mile east of Cromer this time. We walked down from the cliffs to the beach where the Banksy was sprayed onto the wall. There’s not much left of it now after two years of fierce storms on a stony beach and one graffiti attack – I was looking at the wall it was on without seeing it, and from recent reports it’s down to some faded paint blotches and a white square with some black marks. From there we had a good walk to Cromer itself.

We had a list of places to visit, too long for us to make it all the way around. We did get to Bookworms, the tiny secondhand bookshop near the pier, but the other two secondhand bookshops have closed for good (one’s an art gallery – one is closed with all the stock still gathering dust on the shelves). No. 1 the chippie is still there and serving the best fish and chips (and veggie alternatives) in Cromer. And the Neanderthals from the Deep History Coast still point the way to the correct toilet.

We did get the chance to eat at The Grove Hotel’s Sundowner marquee – brilliant tapas and mild jerk chicken pizza. And visit Felbrigg Hall, though yet again we didn’t get as far as the house – arriving on the one day of the year they hosted a massive sponsored run. The place was packed, and everyone seemed to have brought at least one dog with them. We’re really not keen on crowds. We had a long walk around the walled gardens in the cold, then went to rescue a large bagful of books and six plants. In two cases, ‘rescue’ is the right word; two big peony plants that might be dead right down to the roots, or might be waiting for spring to fetch them back. Fifty pence for plants that cost sixteen pounds originally, it’s worth the risk. Our peony plant in Chingford suffered twenty years of neglect from us and came up with beautiful silky red blooms every June.
Three days in Cromer, and then on to Pentney. Along the way, we went to Holkham Hall. We’d walked west along Holkham Beach on our previous visit, and this time we wanted to walk east, as far as Wells Lifeboat Station. Great walk in the sunshine; about four miles in total, though any walk on soft sand feels like twice the distance. We drove down to Holkham Hall afterwards for lunch and got tempted into booking on the Cellar Tour the following day (and the Attic Tour next Wednesday).
No photography allowed in the cellars, but photos really can’t do it justice. It’s a world all of its own. The original builder of Holkham Hall spent his Grand Tour studying the architecture of great halls in Europe, and brought home his favourite ideas. What lies under Holkham Hall is a network of comfortable walkways connecting servants’ stairs up to key rooms above, windows opening onto the north to chill the larder, a huge woodstore and a stray Tudor window.

We finished the Cellar Tour with a visit to the Walled Garden. Apparently, one of the early Earls got fed up with the busyness right next to the hall and had the Walled Gardens relocated – almost a mile away. If you have a back yard of 25,000 acres, I suppose a mile is ‘nearby’. It was worth the walk, but it would have taken another mile of walking to cover the whole lot. After a couple of greenhouses, the Melon Pit, the Pineapple Pit, several flower beds and the vegetable garden we were done in.

Our accommodation in Pentney was at the Energise Spa. Small, but excellent. Outdoor pool with jets, indoor swimming pool, saunas and steam room. I had the entire pool to myself twice during our visit, and there is nothing much better than a pool full of warm, clean water and empty of everyone else to swim in.

Our final day in Norfolk was a return trip to Hunstanton. Sunshine, warmth, a walk from the lighthouse to Hunstanton along the beach and back along the cliff top. Not sure there’s a much better day to spend a birthday.
Now back to real life. Looking after two elderly cats, getting the garden ready for winter and starting on the next stage of getting the house in order. And – writing.


























