
During our first visit to Sutton Hoo we sat in the cafe and read the leaflets advertising the exhibition due to start three weeks later. ‘Swords of Kingdoms’. The curator at Sutton Hoo had arranged for part of the Staffordshire Hoard to be brought here to be displayed. There is a connection – the workmanship and designs in the Staffordshire Hoard were so similar to those of the artifacts recovered from the Sutton Hoo mounds that historians believe that both sets were made in the same workshop – probably in Rendlesham in Suffolk, which was known to have produced decorative items for King Raedwald.
Sutton Hoo is still sticking to the system of making everyone (even National Trust members) book a half hour slot in which they will arrive, and the same goes for entry to the Swords of Kingdoms exhibition. Knowing that the first time we visited, that there was a queue of cars waiting even by 9.50am and that the gates were opened on the dot of ten, that by the time we’d parked and walked to the entry gate it was almost ten past – we booked the second earliest slot, the 10.20 to 10.40 viewing for the exhibition, and the 10 till 10.30 entry for Sutton Hoo itself.
We got into Sutton Hoo by 10.15 and went to stand in the queue for entry to the exhibition hall. The staff kept us busy by telling us the story of the Staffordshire Hoard. If you’ve heard it, skip past the next photo – but basically, it was found by a metal detectorist called Terry Herbert in 2009. He found some of the items and reported them to the head of his club; the land owner gave permission for an excavation to find any further items. A geophysical survey revealed a broad patch of items buried within what seemed to be a ditch-like structure and two sets of digs brought the hoard to the surface. Most of the items were military – decorations to sword or dagger hilts, helmet cheekpieces and epaulettes. Most were beautifully crafted in gold, silver, garnet and inlays with a mix of pagan and Christian symbology. Many had been wrenched from their settings with no real care, and buried together. The theory was that these were spoils of war, ripped from the enemy’s weapons and armour after a great battle in Mercia and buried for later retrieval.

Twenty minutes wasn’t long enough to see it all and take it in. Luckily, this is being displayed an hour from our home until October. We have to come back and take it in when the crowds have dwindled.

After our visit to the Hoard, we had a leisurely look around the main museum hall, followed by a visit to the house. We missed this on our first trip, as we’d been on our feet for hours and everything in our bodies was starting to feel elderly and unfit for purpose. The house was where the Pretty family lived, and it’s an odd mix today – preserved as a grand house of the 1930’s and 40’s with the addition of museum displays of books, photos, newspaper clippings and fragments of pottery found around the site. Interesting to visit, but too crowded. We’ve never been tolerant of large crowds, and we’re even less happy about getting close to strangers these days. We left the house for the cooler air outside before we’d seen it all. Meaning that we have to go back.























